BILL AND JJ’S EXCELLENT ADVENTURE

OUR COLORADO RIVER TRIP

MAY 9-15, 2010

(CLICK THE THUMBNAIL PHOTOS FOR A LARGER IMAGE)

On Sunday, May 9, 2010 JJ and I checked into the Marble Canyon Lodge for the first of our 6 nights boat trip down the Colorado River and through the Grand Canyon.  The settlement of Marble Canyon is located about 125 miles north of Flagstaff, AZ and a few miles downstream from Glen Canyon Dam and Lake Powell.  During our orientation meeting we met our guides, Kyle, Jake, Russ (trainee) and "swampers" Ian and Alex.  Also we introduced ourselves to our other 16 traveling companions.  Most of them had just flown in from Las Vegas and landed across the highway from the motel despite extremely windy conditions.

We were also issued our equipment which included large waterproof duffle bags in which we stuffed our sleeping bags and personal stuff and smaller "dry bags" for things we would need during the day. The large duffels were stored away on the boats during the day and not available until we stopped for the night.
 

Our destination was a place called Whitmore Rapids located 188 miles downstream.  Twelve of our 18 would then take a helicopter ride out of the canyon and to a place called Bar 10 Ranch.  At the Ranch we would catch an airplane ride back to Marble Canyon or to Las Vegas depending on the travelers' preference.  Ten new travelers would join the remaining six and continue 2 more nights to Lake Mead and the end of the trip.

The tour company we chose, Tour West, Inc (www.twriver.com), was recommended by friends from Ridgecrest and we were well pleased with the service.  We paid $2255 each for the trip which included all the transportation, meals and first night's hotel.  Some other tour companies that we encountered along the way included: Hatch, Arizona River Runners, OARS and Diamond.

May 10, 2010 Monday

After breakfast we were shuttled down to the boats at Lee's Ferry-the departure point for all river trips. Lee's Ferry is an historic site having been the only river crossing available in early days.  The ferry landing was named for John D. Lee who met an untimely death before a firing squad for his role in the infamous Mountain Meadows Massacre.

We soon donned our life vests and boarded our two boats to commence the trip. These motorized boats are called "s rig boats". Tour West boats are unique in that the large pontoons are mounted above the waterline while other companies' boats have the pontoons on the water line.  Tour West and other companies also offer rowing trips (one guy rows the boat) or paddle trips where everyone paddles and a guide does the steering.
 

At about 5PM and 30 miles travel we stopped at a riverside camping spot called "30 Mile Camp" (I think). Here we learned the procedures that we would follow each day for the entire trip. First everyone goes off to find their camping site while the crew unloads and assembles the "kitchen".  Then it is time to unload all the personal stuff, cots and chairs. For this job a "fire line" forms and everyone passes the gear up from the boats to the beach. We then haul our gear to the newly found campsite and struggle to put the contrary cots together, unpack the duffels and open up the chairs.

This is not always an easy job and may not be OK for folks who do not like camping. This is very outdoorsy, always in the elements and dirty.  Also, the river water is icy cold and not comfortable for bathing although some of us did it anyway.

OK. Here is the important part: what about toilet facilities?  Well, keep in mind that about 20,000 people per year come down the river and there are limited places to camp. Hence, it is unacceptable to just pee and poop on the ground. Therefore, the rules are  to pee into the river or onto the wet sand which will be flushed by the river. For pooping the "Grand Canyon Crapper" is placed in a discrete spot. The crapper is sealed up in the morning and loaded back onto the boats. It works very well! At the path to the crapper two wash buckets are placed in clear view. Everyone is encouraged to wash hands frequently.  A seat cushion is placed next to the wash buckets and, if the cushion is present, the crapper is free and if absent it is in use.

For these trips modesty is not a virtue-it is an inconvenience!!   

May 11, 2010 Tuesday
Our first night under the stars was a bit rough! The wind howled all night and we were covered with sand at day break. Regardless, some coffee and breakfast were adequate to get us underway at about 8:30AM. It was cold this morning and most of us were very cold and wet on the boats. We stopped in the morning for a hike up Nankoweap Canyon to some old Anasazi graineries. Also, I found out we are not really in the Grand Canyon-actually it is Marble Canyon until one passes the Little Colorado River at mile 63. In the afternoon we passed the site of what was to have been Marble Canyon Dam and construction was almost started in the 1950/60s until the Sierra Club exercised its new political muscle and stopped the effort. Whew! As a compromise the Glen Canyon Dam with Lake Powell was built by 1963 and the nature of the river was forever changed.

May 12, 2010 Wednesday

We camped at Nevills Camp-mile 75.  Now we are experienced river runners and have the routine down quite well.  Good meals, go to bed at dark, get up for coffee, pack our stuff and load the boats and then down the river by about 8AM. We are accustomed to the rapids and have complete faith that our guides know how to negotiate them. The rapids are ranked from 1 to 10 depending on the size of waves or technical difficulty of navigating. Ten is the most severe. We always get wet in the rapids so good rain gear is essential.  Also, shoes or sandals that can get wet and still be used for short hikes are good to have. I think the cold water would feel good in the summer but on a chilly day it is not pleasant.  Here is a link to a short video of typical rapids http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8qsMLplWip0

We stopped at Phantom Ranch for a short walk and visit to civilization with actual toilets.  JJ and I had been here recently with our mule rides of Dec 2008. Some tour companies (but not Tour West) offer trips that end or begin at Phantom Ranch. Clients hike to or from the South Rim. This would be a good way to combine hiking and boating. Shortly after departing Phantom Ranch we did Zoroaster Rapids and I discovered my camera is not waterproof. We got a good drenching and the camera stopped working but later seemed to recover after it dried out.

Today was rapids day- we did, for example,  Granite, Hermit (a 10), Horn and Crystal .

May 13, 2010 Thursday

We attempted a warm shower last night using our sun shower which we had stored in the boat on top of the baggage. However, it was too cloudy all day to heat up the water. We had a great lasagna dinner which was typical of the excellent food on the trip. Speaking of eating-the river runners have a very efficient way to clean up dishes. A table is set up with 4 pails-2 have very hot water and 2 with Clorex for rinsing. As always, the order is from upstream to downstream direction for washing and rinsing. Then there is a mesh net into which the washed utensils are placed for drying.  Everyone pitches in to clean dishes.

We did some excellent canyon hikes along the way and then stopped for the evening at mile 140, Keyhole Canyon.

May 14, 2010 Friday

This is the last full day for most of us. JJ said I actually slept through some light rain last night! I must have been pretty tired; especially after that dinner of pork chops, apple sauce, bread dressing and coleslaw.

We stopped at Havasu Canyon for a short hike and swim in the beautiful turquoise colored stream. This is the same stream we had visited years ago after hiking down to the Havasupai Indian reservation for camping and swimming by the falls.  Later in the afternoon we spotted two male Big Horn Sheep grazing by the river. This is not the rut season so the males are getting along just fine.  They will not be so congenial when it is mating time.

We also navigated the infamous Lava Falls without incident thanks to Jake's boating skills. 

May 15, 2010 Saturday   

We camped on the beach last night at mile 185 which is just upstream of the helipad.  After about 20 minutes boating we arrived at our departure point to catch a 10 minute helicopter ride up to the Bar 10 Ranch on the north side of the river.  Here is a link to a short video from Whitmore International River Airport  http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ew-SMeAnhCc

This is the departure point for many of the river companies. I was very impressed with the helicopter operation and how quickly the travelers and belongings were taken out of the canyon and up to the Bar 10 Ranch.  After a short stay at the ranch we boarded a bus and were taken to the landing strip nearby. Then by 11AM were back at Marble Canyon parking lot after a 35 minute plane ride.

Suddenly, we realized that we were back in the "real" world and that our long awaited adventure had come to a close!  We consider ourselves very fortunate and blessed to have such a priceless experience and hope that many of our friends and family can one day do the same.