BILL AND JJ’S EXCELLENT ADVENTURE IN
MEXICO
OUR COPPER CANYON TRIP OF
5-17 NOV, 2009
(CLICK THE THUMBNAIL PHOTOS FOR A LARGER IMAGE)
On Thursday, 5 Nov, 2009 JJ and I departed San Diego to El Paso, TX to commence our trip to the Copper Canyon (Barranca del Cobre) areas of Mexico. We arrived in El Paso at about 8PM to join our Exploritas (formerly Elderhostel) group of 17 plus our leader, Maria Mitrani, who runs the travel agency, Andiamo (www.andiamo-travel.com). We had previously traveled with Andiamo when we did a Baja California whale watching trip.
6 Nov, 2009 Friday
After a brief overnight stay at the Camino Real hotel we departed to Mexico via bus. We did the border crossing at a small customs station, Santa Teresa, a short distance to the west of El Paso avoiding a crossing through the city of Juarez. Here some of us exchanged US dollars for pesos at an exchange rate of 13.2 pesos per $. Although US dollars were accepted everywhere we traveled the exchange rate was generally not so favorable as here.
At about noon we were on our way through Mexico’s largest state of Chihuahua to the city of the same name arriving at 5PM. No, the state and city are NOT named after that little dog. The dog apparently originated somewhere in Asia (China, Philippines?) and I never got a clear picture of how the dog got its Mexican name.
The long drive to Chihuahua City was along an excellent 4 lane highway (route 45) and through open, arid country with lots of agriculture (cattle, pecan orchards).
After arrival and check-in at the Quality Inn our guide for this segment, Martín, gave us a brief introductory tour of the city. Chihuahua City is celebrating its 300th anniversary in 2009 and one delightful celebratory feature was the night time light show projected onto the front of the cathedral. (sorry, I did not get a photo in the dark). I had never seen such a display and was very impressed with the artistic creativity involved.
Chihuahua City is rich in Mexican history. Father Hidalgo, the key leader of the Mexican war of independence from Spain, was captured, held captive, executed and be-headed here shortly after the independence movement started on Sept 16, 1810. (Mexican independence day is Sept 16, not Cinco de Mayo as many folks in the US believe).
7 Nov, 2009 Saturday
Following breakfast and check out from the hotel we got a closer look at some of the city’s history by stopping at the home of the late Pancho Villa. Actually, Pancho’s widow, Luz Corral de Villa, (well, one of his many widows) lived here until her passing at age 90+ in the 1980s. Mr. Villa had a very complex history having started out as a bandit but later becoming the charismatic leader of the northern division of rebel force in 1910. This was Mexico’s revolution during which the common people rose up against a dictatorial and corrupt government seeking more equality in the distribution of the country’s wealth. The revolutionaries’ cause was successful but Pancho did not get to enjoy his success for very long. He was assassinated on July 20, 1923 by political enemies. The very car, complete with bullet holes, in which he died is on display in his museum.
Our next stop was at the 48 room mansion, Quinta Gameros, built in early 1900s. This extravagant display of extreme wealth was an appropriate illustration of why there was a revolution in the first place. Mr. Gameros built this place for his young bride-to-be, Rosa, including images of her throughout the building. Unfortunately, for Mr Gameros (a man of 60+ years) his 19 years old betrothed fell in love with the architect and, despite his great wealth, Mr Gameros was broken hearted. Proving the truth of my mother’s favorite saying, “there is no fool like an old fool”.
At about 1PM we headed up to an old mining town of Santa Eulalio for lunch and entertainment from a local musician with beautiful singing voice.
Finally, at about 3PM we headed south west to the town of Creel for a two nights stay. Now we began to depart the rolling, open spaces and to ascend the eastern side of the Sierra Madre Mountains and into the lovely alpine pine and oak forests. On the way we passed a lot of apple orchards and paused briefly at the town of Cuahtemoc to buy cheese from a Mennonite community. There is a large colony of Mennonite folks living here having emigrated from Canada in 1920s seeking a place that would allow them to live their own lifestyle with little or no government intrusion. They received this benefit from the Mexicans and, in return, established very successful farming communities
We reached Creel (elevation of about 7000 feet) at 8PM for our stay at the “The Lodge of Creel”.
8 Nov, 2009 Sunday
Today we headed by bus down a very rough dirt road to visit the Cusárare mission and waterfall. This morning we got our first good looks at the Tarahumara indigenous people. The Tarahumara are Mexico’s largest (I think) single indigenous people and have maintained their own lifestyle despite the steady incursion of the outside world. The women dress in their traditional colorful, hand made dresses while men generally wear jeans and modern shirts. We did see a few men wearing their “skirts” and traditional garb but I did not get a photo. These folks live in scattered family units throughout the mountains (indeed, this particular area is known as the “Sierra Tarahumara”).
They are largely family subsistence farmers although selling crafts to tourist is a serious business. When they spot a bus load of tourist they all hustle down to set up their “shops” to sell us crafts. In recent years government programs have provided schools, medical clinics, tin roofs for houses and even tennis shoes. Some maintain a residence in caves while most have small, crude cabins.
The Cusárare waterfalls were quite spectacular (reminded me of the Rainbow Falls near Mammoth Lakes, CA) and a few of us walked down and back up the 241 stairs to the bottom of the falls.
Since today is Sunday the local Tarahumara had gathered at the missions for religious matters and to sit around and visit. They literally “sit around” but don’t do much talking since they believe talking only causes problems. They have blended their native religions and rituals with the Catholic faith.
9 Nov, 2009 Monday
This morning our new guide for this segment of the trip, Carlos, gave a short lecture on plant zones of the mountains and the geology of the Sierra Madre Occidental. The rocks are mostly volcanic in origin and, therefore, much different from the Grand Canyon in USA which is often compared to Copper Canyon. There is another range of mountains far to the east, the Sierra Madre Oriental. To further complicate the Mexican topography there are more recent active volcanic mountains near Mexico City which run roughly east-west and are much, much higher than those of our destination.
At about noon we were waiting and ready for our real entry into the Copper Canyon country via the famous Chihuahua al Pacifico railroad (acronym CHEPE). The CHEPE is considered one of the most scenic train rides in the world and we were not disappointed. The CHEPE was completed in 1961 after a century of so of fits and starts and it runs about 400 miles from near the Sea of Cortez and across the mountains to Chihuahua City. We did about 160 miles from Creel to the town of El Fuerte and then retraced part of our route from El Fuerte back to Divisadero (about 130 miles). Hence, we got to see some of the most scenic parts of our route going in two directions.
The symbol for CHEPE shown on the photo is a circle with a foot with sandals. This represents the Tarahumara folks who are noted for their abilities to run long distances.
At about 1240 we had a very brief stop at the village of Divisadero and got our first good luck at the canyons. The viewing area here is similar to that of the South Rim at the Grand Canyon. In general, however; I would say that Copper Canyon is a totally different experience from the Grand Canyon. For instance, The Copper Canyon is really a complex of 11 canyons (The Copper is only one of them) which are scattered throughout the Sierra Madres and the terrain is green with vegetation. Also, as previously noted the geology is distinctively different.
Finally at 6:30PM we arrived at El Fuerte having descended from the high alpine pine and oak forests, through a mid-level of acacia, mesquite trees and down to a sub-tropical environment.
10 Nov, 2009 Tuesday
We stayed for two nights at the delightful Hotel Posada del Hidalgo in El Fuerte. One of the hotel’s claims to fame is that the legendary “El Zorro” was born and grew up at the same location. Much to our surprise, Zorro was based upon an actual person who migrated from El Fuerte to Alta California (now the state of California) during the days of Spanish rule and did good for the poor people by stealing stuff from the rich ones. Just in case we were doubtful of this story El Zorro showed up at happy hour to sing and dance with the ladies. (Zorro bears a remarkable resemblance to the guy who led our tours of the area).
El Fuerte (the Fort) in the state of Sinaloa is a very old town dating from about 1563. It was established as an outpost for further Spanish exploring and trade further north into areas now in the USA. There is a replica of the original fort with excellent viewing of the surrounding river valley. There are no Tarauhmara natives in this area. Instead, this is the home for the Mayos (not to be confused with the Mayas of pyramid fame who live further south). We visited a Mayo home for lectures, dancing, tortilla and crude pottery making. The Mayo homes are on an “ejido” which is one of many such land cooperatives found all over Mexico. The ejidos resulted from the Revolution of 1910 and were part of the effort to allow common people more access to the nation’s wealth.
We did a short, bird watching float trip on the El Fuerte river and stopped to examine the local flora and some petroglyphs.
Fresh water fish are common in the restaurants here. The very tasty black bass and crayfish are grown in fish farms and sport fishing is also popular.
11 Nov, 2009 Wednesday
We were up early and back to the train station for our trip back to the mountains. After about a 4 hour/100 mile train ride we arrived Bahuichivo and then on a bus for a short ride to our destination at the Hotel Mision, at Cerocahui. Cerocahui is a very remote little village in a fertile valley which is heavily populated with the Tarahumara natives. In the afternoon some of us took a short hike led by a local guide, Juan, and his trusty dog to a delightful water fall. On the way back we met a local native boy, Ruben, who was performing his after school chores of bringing fire wood home for cooking. Wood fires are used extensively in these areas for heating and cooking and the skies become quite smoky in the evening.
12 Nov, 2009 Thursday
This morning at 8AM we started a bus trip up some very winding roads to reach an overlook spot for viewing the Urique Canyon. This canyon is, I think, the largest of the Copper Canyon area and deeper than the Grand Canyon in USA. We could see to the bottom of the canyon where the Urique River flows past the town of Urique. There is a road that goes to the bottom and I am sure the ride would be quite a thrill! Good brakes and a very good driver are mandatory! We did not go there.
The Mexican government is investing in this area and building facilities such as a good viewing station to encourage tourism. I will say more about this later.
At noon we headed back to the train station for our final short trip on the CHEPE and arrived at the Hotel Divisadero Barranca at 3PM. Here Maria had quite a treat waiting for us since we all had rooms right on the canyon edge with spectacular views!! As expected our whole gang was out on the balconies watching the sunset.
In the evening we had more lectures on and visits with the local Tarahumara. We had a chance to add to our ever increasing supply of baskets. The baskets are woven from the needles of the Apache pine tree or the blades of the Sotol plant which is similar to the Agave. The Sotol is also used to create a brew very similar to tequila and is a specialty of Chihuahua (see, www.sotol.com) I have heard that Sotol is sold in Costco in the USA.
13 Nov, 2009 Friday
This morning we did a walking tour along the rim of the canyons via some well constructed paths with safety rails. They even have a walk with a glass bottom extending over the abyss similar to the one at Grand Canyon. This one, however, is free and you can stay as long as you please. At the end of the paths there is a new construction site. The government is making a major investment here by building a tram that will go all the way to the bottom with a restaurant along the way! Hence, this area may become a much more heavily used tourist site in a few years.
In the afternoon most of our group did a hike to the summit of a nearby mesa for more photos and to visit some of the Tarahumara cave dwellings.
14 Nov, 2009 Saturday
After a quick viewing of the sunrise with rain clouds we departed Divisadero via bus for our next destination. We retraced by highway part of our original rail journey and stopped briefly at Creel. We dropped off our “passenger”- a young Tarahumara mother who was bringing her sick baby to the local clinic. This is a modern development since many of the natives still do not believe in western medical procedures.
Our destination is Basaseachi which is only about 30 miles from Creel as the crow flies. However, we are not crows and the bus ride is quite long until a new highway currently well under construction is completed. We stopped for lunch at the town of Tomochi famed for having had a small peasant uprising against the wealthy land owners in 1890. The uprising was unsuccessful but it did help to plant the notion of revolution which commenced on Nov 20, 1910.
Finally, we reached today’s destination of the Basaseachi water falls under chilly, cloudy and windy conditions. Here, as in Divisadero, we were treated to some truly spectacular scenery. We hiked down to the top of the falls where the bus had gone to pick us up. Our guide, Luis, reminded us to hike and look at scenery but NOT at the same time! It seems that a few careless tourists have stepped over the edges!
We checked into our quaint cabins at the Rincon Cabana and enjoyed a home cooked meal of fresh carrots, potatoes, barbeque and tortilla soup all prepared by the owners.
15 Nov, 2009 Sunday
Today we had an early 8AM departure via bus to Casas Grandes which was a very long ride indeed. Our progress was not helped by the fact that the bus could not manage going up hill without frequent overheating and shut downs. On this ten hour journey we departed the mountain area and entered the high plains and then desert landscape.
At 6PM we arrived at the Posada Guacamayas Lodge at Casas Grandes. This lodge, owned by Maria de la Luz Lujan (Mayte), is intended for very small groups and in it she displays an impressive collection of art and wood work.
16 Nov, 2009 Monday
Today, after breakfast at the hotel and a quick tour of Mayte’s very unique home we started to immerse ourselves into the local art world.
We started out with a brief tour of downtown Casas Grandes and a stop at a small gift shop. The gift shop had available a most interesting drink-for a mere 10 pesos per shot glass one can drink a magical elixir that is said to cure arthritis, heart disease and all other known human ailments. Of course, consuming that elixir is a bit daunting since the drink is basically the previously mentioned Sotol (tequila-like) in a large glass jar in which floats a pickled rattlesnake! They said the rattlesnakes are put in alive but pass away quite happily within 24 hours. One of our group, Terry, was brave enough to try it and he said it was not bad. Hence, several of us also gave it a shot. Now I am certain the elixir does not cure diarrhea and may even cause it!
Outside the shop we briefly met Mr. Spencer MacCallum, an American now residing in Casas Grandes. Mr. MacCallum is credited with having discovered some 30 years ago the precious pottery artistry of the area and of putting the place on the map as an important place for artists and art collectors. He saw some pottery done by a local artist, Juan Quesada, and recognized his genius. Today Mr. Quesada is a local legend and there are hundreds of families that make and sell the pottery. (check www.mataortizcalendar.com)
Today’s feature event was to visit the nearby town of Mata Ortiz. On the way we stopped to take some photos of a Mormon colony which was sort of an oasis in the desert complete with a temple and school that teaches classes in English. The homes of the Mormon families look like places in Utah and really are quite distinct from their neighbors. I suppose the original Mormon settlers came to Mexico so they could practice multiple marriages but this is probably not practiced today.
We arrived at the Mata Ortiz metropolitan area in time for lunch hosted by a local American lady who has been here for 20+years. While we were having lunch our presence created a bit of a traffic jam as the local artisans came over to sell their lovely pottery to the tourists. Some great bargains were found. I only regret that we could not buy every single pot since due to recession the folks are not selling many these days and they have obviously put in a lot of work.
After lunch we visited the home and studio of Mr. Quesada’s daughter for a demonstration of pottery making and firing. All the local families compete among themselves for originality and perfection in their pottery. Some pieces sell for a few dollars while others go for $5000US or more!
Finally, we wrapped up our day and our trip with a farewell dinner and an exhibition of Mexican folk dances at a restaurant in downtown Casas Grandes.
17 Nov, 2009 Tuesday
Before heading back to the USA we had a tour of the nearby ruins of Paquimé. The Paquimé were an advanced culture that flourished around 1200- 1340 AD and are related to the Pueblo cultures of the southwestern USA. They traded with other native civilizations to the north and south. The bright colored feathers of the MacCaw bird (Guacamaya) were treasured and we saw “cages” where the birds were enclosed in the Paquimé village. Of course, the early Paquime were skilled potters and this is the skill that the artisans of Mata Ortiz have recreated in their own original ways. It appears the Paquimé life ended tragically as there is evidence their city burnt down.
At 1030AM we departed Casas Grandes and 5 hours later had arrived at the airport in El Paso, TX after an uneventful border crossing. Finally, the San Diego crowd was back home by 8:30PM and it was time for home-sweet-home.
Upon reflecting on our trip JJ and I are again reminded of how fortunate and privileged we are (especially those of us from San Diego) to live in such close proximity to the U.S -Mexican border. In a matter of minutes we can cross that invisible geographic boundary and become immersed in a world that is quite distinct from our own. We enter a land of immense natural beauty, a culture with different languages, different cuisine, different music, dance and history. We mingle with a warm and complex people who are thrilled to share their world with us. VIVA MEXICO!